17 Camels

Wedding Crashers

2005-07-27T10:29:00.000-07:00

Last weekend two of my fabulous roommates and I explored our home turf. Alex is deceivingly large (there are about 6 million people living here), leaving many places yet to be discovered. We headed off with the Citadel in mind, but didn't end up making it there until the wee hours of the morn. Instead, we deviated from our initial plan and found ourselves at a Greek Church. It was a beautiful reminder of the large international community once living here in Alex. Greeks, Italians, Brits, French, Americans ... You name it, they were here, and chances are they have a run down villa somewhere to prove it.
From the Church we wondered through a market, which spread across six to eight blocks, winding through narrow alleys piled high with trash and dirt. There were butchers and fish mongers and fruit and vegetable stands. The smells of rotting fruit and dead animals and trash filled the air. It was delightful, but not an experience for the faint of heart. One look at that cow head hanging on a big 'ole meat hook and you'd be passed out face down in a pile of rotting tomatoes.
After the market we walked down to the water and headed in the direction of the citadel along the Corniche. As we walked along, we received quite a bit of attention, as we have come to expect at this point in time. We sat down to regroup and ended up talking to a diving instructor from Brazil who bought us coffee and pointed us in the direction of one of Alex's best fish restaurants. We had yet to sample the local fare, so after coffee we headed over to Anfusi, the seafood district in the city. We found the place tucked in a little alley, and before we knew it we were picking our fishes for dinner. Seriously, the food was probably the best I have had since I've been here, and we have been back to the restaurant many times since.
Feeling slightly bloated but very content we resumed out treck toward the Citadel only to be thrown off course yet again, this time by a wedding. We heard music coming from an alley, and before we knew it we were being guided into a wedding party. We had our pictures taken with the bride and groom and danced with them and all their guests. I now know why Egyptian mammas can shake their hips - they start young, very young. So, the wedding was an incredible experience, and just another example of how warm and welcoming Egyptians are. I mean, would you let 3 dirty smelly underdressed 20 somethings into your wedding? Probably not.
Since we worked off some of the fish shakin it at the wedding we decided to refuel at one of the most famous rice pudding places in the city. Ahh, rice pudding and ice cream, how I love thee. Delightful. Then we packed off yet again in the direction of the Citadel.
And, finally, we were there! The Citadel was lit up beautifully, and there were people sitting all along the water, some even swimming. There were vendors selling all different types of nuts and ice cream and tea and toys. Even kites flying in the night sky. Beautiful. It was certainly the right time to arrive at the Citadel.

Islamic Cairo

2005-07-13T05:27:00.000-07:00

I headed off to Cairo for a few days for a much needed change of pace after chilling out on the gorgeous beaches of Alex for about a week. I arrived with Leah on Monday night, and after settling in and catching up with the other trainees we caught a cab to Khan Al Khalili. It is a huge market that sprawls across Islamic Cairo where you can find everything from spices to drums to chickens to gold to belly dancing costumes. Needless to say, the place is packed with tourists and locals alike (but I am sure the locals get a much better deal on the stuff). After Leah and I got out of the cab we were spotted by another extremely friendly Egyptian man who pointed us in the direction of the real local part of the market, where you could find fruits, vegetables, spices, scarves, rugs, etc. So, taking his advice, we headed down the narrow streets and found ourselves being welcomed into the various stalls. Highlights of the trip include going into a spice factory where they grind everything up, buying a really hip pair of Egyptian camel skin sandals, watching a candle-stick maker make wedding candles, and meeting several colorful characters including Muhammad Hashish (the name says it all) and members of his extended family (I took a picture with the Hashish clan - I really hope it comes out.)
The next day I returned to Islamic Cairo but hit up a different area. I started off at a mosque, and then ate a falafel sandwich from a street cart (bold I know, but I love falafel). I went to an old Ottoman mansion, which was quite beautiful, and then to did a tour hour walking tour of the area (a la Lonely Planet). After that I enjoyed a cup of shay (I ordered it myself in Arabic) at one of the most famous coffee houses in the area. Like the evening before, I had more good times meeting the friendly locals and making lots of new friends.
To close, I would like to relay something I heard many times yelled at me at the market. Vendor: "I know just what you are looking for..." Me: Smile and wait for it. Vendor: "An Egyptian boyfriend." Honey, if I wanted an Egyptian boyfriend I wouldn't have to buy one from the Khan.

At the 'Brary

2005-07-07T03:18:00.000-07:00

I am typing from the Bibliotheca Alexandrina right now using DSL (for free). The library is incredible. Its several stories that are staggered on top of each other so that you can look down from the top and see the floors spread out horizontally. The roof is glass and is supported by large concrete pillars. The floors are all wood and the shelving for the books is metal. Its all very modern looking. Reminds me of Ikea....
There is also a planetarium at the Library which shows all kinds of interesting things (maybe they sound more interesting because of the translations of the titles). Today Morgan and I watched "The Ring of Fire," which is all about (can you guess?) volcanoes! We even got special english headsets to wear so we could understand the show. That, combined with the comfortable seats and air condition, made the planetarium the best part of my day.
The Library also hosts cultural events and conferences. This summer is the "Light and Shadow" Festival, and every night at 9 a different musician, dancer, etc. performs for what is very very close to free (only 5 pounds - less than a dollar!!) I've already seen one band play and they were really good (they are about to release their first CD). They sounded quite Western (a bit like Dispatch actually), and the guy on the drum was totally rockin'. The stage everyone performs on is outside, and, since the library is right on the water, you have the sea breeze the entire time. Lovely.
Although the new Library is beautiful, I can't help but wonder what the original looked like. I find myself contemplating what ancient Alex would have looked like a lot actually. I mean you had the Lighthouse (one of the seven wonders of the world), the Library, Cleopatra Palace... But all of that is underwater now. Must have been quite something.

Giza

2005-07-03T02:54:00.000-07:00

The Pyramids are truly a wonder to behold. I had been dying to see them ever since I arrived and on Thursday I finally had my chance. After metro, bus, and taxi I arrived at these huge monuments dedicated to pharos thousands of years ago. They are completely enormous, but their size is not the only remarkable thing about them. What really got me was the workmanship - the way the large rocks fit perfectly with each other, no gaps or cracks at all. I really have no idea how they did it. It would be a technical feat today, even with all of our technology, no matter way back when they were built. It was incredible to look at the profile of the pyramid and see the rocks perfectly stacked on top of each other, making a perfect zig zag into the sky.
After taking a couple of pics (which I am sure will fill to capture the sheer massiveness of the structure, not matter the delicate way it all fit together) I hopped on a horse for a ride around these giants. Hopped on is not a very accurate way of describing the process. We bargained extensively with the owner, rode over in a small buggy packed with six people, and then were paired up with these poor animals who were designated to haull us through the desert. Initally I was given one horse to ride, but as soon as I was mounted it seemed that I actually need to ride another. So, I dismounted, and, while doing so, whacked myself in the head with my camera. And, unfortunately for me, I do not have one of those small state of the art digital cameras. Oh no, I hit myself just below the eye with the lense of an SRL. I shook it off and was about to get on the other horse when I realized my companions were looking at me with a horrified expression that I could not explain. So, thinking perhaps my face was swelling, I reached up and lo and behold I was bleeding. Needless to say I have a bruise and a cut under my left eye that is not to pretty (and yet does deter Egyptian men from hissing at me in the street). No, don't worry mom, its really not all that bad at all. By the end of the week it will be completely gone. Funny story though, eh?
I also saw the sphinx, which is just a stones throw away from the pyramids. It was actually a bit smaller than I expected, but maybe thats because I saw the pyramids first. Anyway, it was still pretty cool. And, as I was told, it directly faces KFC.

Ode to My Apartment

2005-07-03T02:31:00.000-07:00

Oh, 16 Mohammad Abou El Ella,
Unknown apartment number,
How I loathe thee.
As I pass the threshold you welcome me
With the stench of wet Persian carpets
Bleeding dirt from thousands of years ago
On our white linoleum floors.
Like Cleopatra Palace,
The kitchen, bathroom, and hallway
Are hidden underwater,
Waiting to reveal their secrets
To us, the lowly tourists of the apartment,
When they please, or when the plumber comes.
And you, the water heater,
Why did you abandon me?
For a week you faithfully provided me with hot water,
A small joy not under appreciated nor overlooked.
But, alas, the small comfort you gave ended.
And now you, dear phoneline.
Our contact to the rest of the world
(Or Alexandria at least - only capable of local calls)
Severed.
I have been banished to an internet cafe.
Oh dear apartment,
I have not forgotten your balcony view,
Overlooking the neighborhood of Kafur Abdo.
It is a sight that inspires me in the morning and calms me at night.
It provides a constant reminder of why,
Despite your rugs and your water,
Despite your heater and phoneline,
I still return home,
Eager to arrive at your (unmarked) door.

Women of the Tram

2005-06-28T09:16:00.000-07:00

Apparently, lime green is in this season. I was riding home on the tram, in the women’s car, of course, when I noticed that the group of teenage girls standing across from me were all wearing lime green. They were all looking at me and smiling, so their choice of clothing seemed like as good a conversation starter as any, and I asked them why they were all wearing the same color. I eventually came to understand that the color is the latest trend here in Egypt, and was all of a sudden very happy to be wearing a lime green shirt that day. Maybe that is why the girls all chatted with me so readily. I was, for a passing moment, one of the group.
The women’s car of the tram is probably my favorite thing in Egypt. It is a safe haven from the Egyptian men and shouts of "Welcome to Alexandria," which, after a while, are not very welcoming at all. It also provides me with a brief opportunity to enter into a society that I have not yet fully experienced. I love sitting with Egyptian women, young and old alike, completely veiled or just with head scarves. All I have to do is to mumble something that sounds remotely like a greeting in arabic and they are off and running, asking me questions about myself, my home, and my time here in Egypt. They are so warm and welcoming, and I really feel as if I can trust these women, even if I have only known them since the last stop.
Riding the tram home for the first time by myself exemplified the sense of community invested in these "women of the tram." I had no idea where to get off, and, apparently, this was completely obvious to my tram-mates. So, within minutes, a young woman approached me and asked me where I was going. I tried to tell her my address, and she quickly summoned further help when she could not understand what I was saying. Soon, I found myself surrounded by women, talking to each other trying to figure out just where I was trying to go and how to get me there. Needless to say, twenty minutes later I was getting off the tram at my stop, and turned to wave goodbye to my group of newfound friends, who were all watching me with smiles and waving back.
So, to all you Egyptian mamas out there, thank you so much for creating such a warm and welcoming community on the tram. I have taken public transportation in many a foreign country, but can’t say I have ever really actively looked forward to the experience as I do now. At least I know that there is one place in this new and crazy country where a blonde American girl like me can feel right at home.

Another Side of Alex

2005-06-21T00:21:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I saw yet another side of Alex. The variation here is incredible. Take Kafr Abdu, where I live. Its a residential area with older apartment buildings, one or two villas, and a large public park. Quiet, relaxed, and spatious. Now take the neighborhood in which I work. Crumbling buildings, packed sheesha bars, fish flopping in buckets, and goats running down the streets. Loud, busy, and dirty. And, then you have downtown.
For what was once one of the busiest ports of the Mediterranean, Alex has very little to show for it. Downtown there are a handful of early 1900s hotels, cafes, and shops, which provide a rare glimpse at what the city used to be. Morgan and I checked out the Pharmacie Suisse and Athenios, a Greek cafe, as suggested by ever-trusty Lonely Planet. These two places were lined with dark wood and ornate light fixtures and were really quite charming. We also grabbed pastries at Delicies, a lovely tea room that sits on Midan Ramala, a large square in the center of downtown.
afterwards, Morgan and I stumbled across a narrow street filled with shoe vendors. This was just the start of our market experience. Later that afternoon we found yet another network of streets lined with fabric, button, and bead vendors - everything one would ever need to make any sort of vestments. These stalls eventually gave way to a gold and silver shops, where everything is priced by weight with a few extra pounds thrown in for the decoration. These streets are collectively referred to as Zinqat as-Sittat, or "the women's squeeze." You can just imagine why.
So, I continue to explore Alex and all the things she has to offer, none quite like the next, and enjoy my time here on the "love wave on Egyptian soil."

A Day at the Citadel

2005-06-21T00:16:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I spent the day at the Citadel in Cairo. The Citadel has been around for over 700 years and was built to protect the city against the Crusaders. Over the years, many others added onto the Citadel, and today it contains three mosques, museums, an amphitheater, gardens, fountains, and a theater.
The first thing I did as soon as I entered the Citadel was buy a scarf (while waiting in line to buy a ticket, I remembered that you have to have your head covered to enter the mosques). My next stop was the Mosque of Mohammed Ali, the largest mosque in the Citadel. After removing my shoes and going through the door, I found myself in a large courtyard with ornate ironwork windows providing a beautiful panoramic view of the city. Inside the mosque, the floor was covered with red carpets and small glass jars with candles inside hung from the ceiling. There was a breeze moving through the mosque and the glass jars knocked each and made filled the room with tinkling sounds. The mosque was a very peaceful place (completely unlike anywhere else I had been in Cario).
I sat in the mosque for a bit and then worked my way around the rest of the Citadel, visiting another smaller mosque and the Police and Military Museums. The Citadel closed at 6, so I walked down the hill and into the town below in an attempt to find some dinner. Instead, I ended up sitting eating ice-cream in a beautiful little park, watching the little kids play soccer and noticing the supposedly rare displays of public affection. Although men and women are not supposed to touch in public, every now and again you’ll notice a pair holding hands or sitting with an arm around a shoulder. It is nearly always in an enclosed area though, such as a park or a beach resort, where, I suppose, people have some degree of privacy. Egyptian attitudes towards public displays of affection are quite unlike Western attitudes. There are actually "PDA Police" here, who watch for inappropriate behave and can throw couples into jail for an indiscreet kiss.
But, I digress. So, after relaxing in the park for a bit I walked back up the hill to go to a Sufi Performance. To share the little I know about the Sufis, they are a religious order who believe that one should become one with God through complete love for Him. One way to achieve this love is through dance.
I watched completely amazed as the Sufis spun around and around for what seemed like hours in their colorful dress and large skirts to the heavy beat of drums and tambourines. What really shocked me was the amount of the time that the main dancer spun around - I still can’t understand how someone could physically do that, and this guy was no spring chicken either. The only explanation, in my mind at least, was that the dancers must go into some kind of trance. Their facial expressions even changed as the dance continued, showing joy and peace rather than exhaustion, which is what I would have expected. I really have to agree that the dance is some sort of religious experience. Otherwise, I don’t really know how to explain it.
So, that was my day at the Citadel. Yet another day passes here in Egypt.

Work in Bahary

2005-06-15T17:45:00.000-07:00

About to head out to (can you guess it?) sheesha! Arguably my favorite Egyptian tradition. For those of you who haven’t tried, I suggest you do. For all those back home who perhaps do not have the opportunity to partake in this delightful flavored tobacco experience, I am bringing one home. Something to look forward to.
Today I visited the NGO in Bahary, where I will be teaching English and playing with babyhaats for three days a week. The area the NGO is in is quite different from anywhere else in Alex I’ve visited. I got out of the cab and found myself in the middle of yet another crowded street, but this time instead of just people there were goats and chickens too. There were food and tea and juice vendors, as well as butchers’ shops and car/machine/shoe repair places.
The main building of the NGO I am working for is across the street from a mosque. The building is tall and narrow and has at least 6 floors. The NGO provides several different services for the community - it’s a hospital, dentistry, primary school, technical school, orphanage, computer lab and gym all rolled into one. The people that work there are lovely - warm and welcoming. No one there speaks a lick of English, and considering I speak little to no Arabic communication will be quite a challenge. But, I am sure I will learn the language much faster given the situation. To start, I will be teaching English three times a week to 10th and 11th graders (it’s a conversation class, so if anyone has good ideas of things to chat about please post them). I’ll also play with the babyhaats, and if I can find anything else to do I’ll do that too (I have a lot of choice as to what I do while I am there).
Right, I am headed out. See you Cairenes soon! Love to you all.

A Night At the American Cultural Center

2005-06-14T12:41:00.000-07:00

Tonight was the exclusive (guest list only, please) Flag Day party at the American Cultural Center, and my roommates and I received an invite thanks to some state department secret service that we met at a bar last night. It was quite the event, to say the least, complete with the national anthem, changing of the colors, and even mini-hamburgers. As soon as I arrived I found myself being lead up the steps of the building (a beautiful old villa) to a reception line (I suppose that is what you'd call it - I've never dealt with one before). Anyway, I found myself shaking hands with the acting ambassador of Egypt, his wife, and some other important people who I didn't really know. The rest of the evening was spent hobknobbing with the rest, including one fabulous old British woman who regaled me with storiesabout her cat, Jasper. If any cat lover is wondering what to do when your local Carrefour runs out of Whiskas, just run down the street and buy a rabbit or two for your beloved feline.
Last night we met the secret service agents at one of the two expat bars in Alex called Spitfire. It was your typical Westerners abroad hangout, complete with Stella and the latest American rock music. But, I had a really good time - good company (foreigners teaching english here in Alex) and good conversations.
Earlier that day, my roommates and I made a trip with Bahaa to Carrefour, the Egyptian equivalent of Wallmart. After buying groceries for the house, we ate lunch at this great little place called Muhammad Ahmed (vegetarian). I am going to have to go back sometime soon - thanks to an upset tummy I didn't really sample too much of the fare.
After that, we explored downtown Alex a bit.
Today I walked around the city for the first time since I've arrived on my own, and I am proud to say that I found my way back to the house with relative ease. Alex is a really easy place to get around - there are only three main streets that all run parallel to each other. Once you've got those figured out, there's not much too it. We live in a pretty residential area so my walk was past apartment buildings and grocers and little cafes. The weather was beautiful too - since Alex is on the coast there is a lovely sea breeze.
I must get going - the night is still young and I have to throw on my coat before I go out again. The party at the Center was semi-formal so I wore a knee length skirt and a shirt which covered my shoulders. But, you know what, I still felt so exposed. Even a little scandalous. Its so odd that I haven't even been here a week and I am already so conscious of how much skin I am showing. More later. Much love to you all back home.

Alex

2005-06-12T08:23:00.000-07:00

So, I am finally in Alex (Alexandria), my new home for the next two months. Right now I am sitting in my new pad, which is in Kafr Abdo. My bed just arrived, so I have a place to sleep tonight but I'm not quite sure where I'll be (I'm going to be sharing a room with one of my roommates). But enough of this idle chatter, I have far more interesting things to blog about.
So I arrived at the train station this morning bright and early (thank you Houssam) after missing my train last night. I hopped on and arrived in Alex at 10:30. I wouldn't have actually made it if Bahaa hadn't pulled me off in time (I thought I was going to the last stop - oops). But, yet again, in the hands of trusty @ers everything worked out. We drove from the station straight to the private beach, which is, in short, incredible. The sand is lovely and white and the water is bright blue and the whole thing is just beautiful. For those of you who don't live in Alex, you should be jealous. At the beach we linked up with Morgan (one of my roommates) and Mustafa (another Alex @er).We hung out on the beach until about 4 when we left to take a senic drive around some of the sites near the club, and hunted down the perfect tree with orange blossoms for Morgan to take a picture of. It was a fabulous afternoon.
My initial impression of Alex is very different than that of Cairo. I know that my conclusions may be a bit premature, but from first glance Alex seems much more laid back that Cairo. Not only that, but in Alex people seem to really live in the city. Driving over to our place I noticed several people out on the streets grocery shopping or smoking sheesha or playing outside. In Cario, everyone seems to be going somewhere or doing something (at least downtown) but here in Alex people seem more concerned in the routine aspects of life. Again, I am making these conclusions after only being here a day, but I'll return to the subject as days pass and see if my initial impressions are long lasting.
I didn't really have any assumptions about Egypt before I came, so it is difficult to compare my ideas of the country and the actual reality of it. But, I will say this. Egypt is a beautiful country pulsing with life and history. The people are extremely warm and will do just about anything they can to help you out. It really is unlike any place I've ever been. The majority of the buildings are concrete rectangles and squares of various sizes, but their plain exteriors are decorated with bright colored clothing hanging on lines outside the windows. The streets are full of traffic and shops and taxis and donkey carts and coffeehouses and fruit stands and people.
Right well I have to run. The boys are taking Morgan and I to buy cell phones. So, mom, I'll call you later today.

6 Hours 'til Liftoff

2005-06-08T09:49:00.000-07:00

So, I'm going to Egypt! After some serious pre-departure jitters I am finally feeling ready to embark on what I am sure will be an amazing adventure. I still feel like I don't really know what to expect, despite all of the reading, prep sessions, etc. What is it going to be like when I step off of that airplane? I don't really think anything can prepare you for that moment. But, I suppose that is one of the best parts of traveling - you never quite know what to expect and your time abroad is filled with new discoveries and experiences. I can't wait. I want to learn some arabic, try new foods (I've been reading about this stuff called fool/fuul, which is made from beans and sounds pretty tasty), ride some camels, visit the pyramids, barter with mercants for bedouin rugs (made from camel hair), smoke some sheesha, and do a million other things. Most importantly, though, I want to make some Egyptian friends. I think that having good friends from other places is incredible because you can learn so much from each other.
Right, thats it for now. I have to do some very very last minute packing. Next entry, I'll be typing in Cairo!